Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens

Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.

It is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.

"I've seen individuals concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has organized a informal group of cultivators who make wine from four discreet city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots across the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the collective's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Around the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned artistic district area and over three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Vineyards help urban areas stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They preserve open space from development by creating long-term, yielding farming plots inside urban environments," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and rotten grapes from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Efforts Throughout the City

Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the car windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 vines situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."

Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly make good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of making vintage."

"When I tread the fruit, the various wild yeasts are released from the skins into the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add preservatives to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a lab-grown yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on

Lisa Thomas
Lisa Thomas

Lena Voss is a professional poker player and coach with over a decade of experience, specializing in tournament strategy and mental game techniques.